DIY Power Cord & Power Filter

Anyone tried this before :

http://www.dms-audio.com/superclamp-clone
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/diycables.html

Hi Kim...

The "CAT 5" cable is part of my current setup, its still burning in....not following the build as what has been described in the TNT website. A pair of cables are run through air tube / pipes ( which can be purchased from Pet stores ) and the cables are wrapped with aluminium foil or the coaxial outer wire sheilds. You can get creative... with your DIY cables....

Lots of experimentation and SQ varies but it should settle down after a few weeks of play and u decide if the SQ is what you desire.

Also the Connectors and the soldering makes a difference to the overall SQ.

That's my experience with DIY-ing... have fun.

cheers

Hello Wingman,

I had done quite a few power cable using Belden & normal 4mm 7 core 3 phase wiring cable. I notice IMHO :-
a) SQ is as good as RM500 power cable in the market. I have Kimber Reference and Supra to compare.
b) I save over 50% of the cost.
c) I always get my mother in law >60 years old and my wife to tell me if there is any difference. Both of them is "brand blind", if they can tell the difference, to me there is a difference.

I am in the midst of constructing my Klipsch Promedia GMX 5.1 cheap & cheerful setup. I had tried CAT 5 cable, impressive results compared with Supra --> CAT 5 really cheap & cheerful . It is still at the trial stage, but imagine the cost savings versus the sound quality.

I am in the power & cooling business, I get the materials from the projects which there are remaining materials.

I also diy a power cord using belden cable. In my system, it's better than my oyaide Tunami powercord that cost more than RM1000. U need to chose the right cable, right shielding, connector n length .

Yeah, DIY power cables are easy to construct.

I made my first power cable using the normal wires building contractors use to embed wiring into our house walls. Don't know how what gauge rating it is, but it's thick enough (and cheap!).

My reasoning is that since the wires that link the house is the same cheap (but thick) wires, why not continue the link to my equipment. It cost less than MYR1 per meter.
Well, there is improvement over the free power cable that comes with the equipment. I didn't implement any special shielding on it.

Recently I bought some made-in-USA 10AWG cable (not a hifi brand cable: probably for industrial application) and terminated it myself. There is a distinct improvement to my system - less noise, better clarity. Made a few for my friends and they liked it (of course they did - it didn't cost them an arm and a leg).

There are lots of cables out there available for DIY that will be as good as or better than those costing a few hundred ringgit. I am not going to compare the DIY ones with those branded ones costing thousands of $$ - they are perhaps in a different league and I'm sure these exotic ones are good. But DIY cables are easy to construct and easy on the wallet. They are good value for those on a tight budget.

Dear Sph,

Can I know where you bought the made in USA cable? I would like to try it out . I would like to explore "think out of the box"....

Hi Wingman ... so did you manage to source the CAT 5 cable for me???

Ng,

Those made-in-USA cables are actually used cables. They were probably stripped from factories and recycled. I got them overseas.

I have tried Belden, Transparent. They don't come close to this one. Previously the other cables gave some improvement. With this cable the improvement was very significant over the Belden and Transparent.

I have a spare 1.5 meter available if you want to give this a try. If you don't like it, you are welcome to return it to me. But I'm away from KL right now.

Dear SPH,

I am more than happy to try it. I will PM you my number. Thanks, many thanks in advance.

bassraptor wrote:Hi Wingman ... so did you manage to source the CAT 5 cable for me???

Hi Bass...

Yes, i managed to get the cables. Will schedule a meet up as soon as i get my hands on the cables from the source.

The CAT 5's are basically network cables with twisted strands in 4 pairs and not power cables. Currently, in the midst of using them as my DIY...ed interconnects...and another pair is in an enhancement stage...with add on... ....



cheers

Hi Wingman!

Very interesting to see your project with the CAT5. i am currently happy with my interconnects, but am toying with the idea of making some mains cable. I do hope that you (or anyone else who reads and wants to share opinion) don't mind me asking a few quick questions...

1)Any idea where to get solid core copper wire, say 18AWG in KL?

2)I was at the mapleshade records website (www.mapleshadestore.com... i have some of their excellent recordings), and they are of the opinion that cables should be separated..ie the live, neutral and earth wires should not be braided together as commonly done, but kept at a minimum of 6 inches apart.Same goes for interconnect cables as well, keep the + and the - separate. Better transparency apparently.

what's your take on this?

Many many thanks for sharing. I would dearly like to share my pictures of diy on my maggie MMGs, but *sigh*, try as i might, i can't follow the instructions on this forum to upload pictures. I am sure this is just my dinosaur age showing... but i would be most grateful to anyone who would be able to give a step by step guide on how to do this.

Warmest,

Bal. 012-3058090 or balinkl@gmail.com

Hi Wingman!

Very interesting to see your project with the CAT5. i am currently happy with my interconnects, but am toying with the idea of making some mains cable. I do hope that you (or anyone else who reads and wants to share opinion) don't mind me asking a few quick questions...

1)Any idea where to get solid core copper wire, say 18AWG in KL?

2)I was at the mapleshade records website (www.mapleshadestore.com... i have some of their excellent recordings), and they are of the opinion that cables should be separated..ie the live, neutral and earth wires should not be braided together as commonly done, but kept at a minimum of 6 inches apart.Same goes for interconnect cables as well, keep the + and the - separate. Better transparency apparently.

what's your take on this?

Many many thanks for sharing. I would dearly like to share my pictures of diy on my maggie MMGs, but *sigh*, try as i might, i can't follow the instructions on this forum to upload pictures. I am sure this is just my dinosaur age showing... but i would be most grateful to anyone who would be able to give a step by step guide on how to do this.

Warmest,

Bal. 012-3058090 or balinkl@gmail.com

bal,
1. Go to any hardware store and tell them you want cable for 2.0HP aircon installation. They will give you 2.5-3.0mm wire that made by 5-7 solid cores. If you want single solid core for 3.0mm, I think you have to look for it in welding company.

bal wrote:Hi Wingman!

2)I was at the mapleshade records website (www.mapleshadestore.com... i have some of their excellent recordings), and they are of the opinion that cables should be separated..ie the live, neutral and earth wires should not be braided together as commonly done, but kept at a minimum of 6 inches apart.Same goes for interconnect cables as well, keep the + and the - separate. Better transparency apparently.

what's your take on this?

Bal...

Frankly, I won't be able to answer that question and won't venture in that direction as well. Need to understand the risk, cost factor and whether it really works. To many variables in play. So, I would stick with the conventional way. Thats my personal views.

Do lots of research before you take this approach, read from the WEB, consult M&E consultants / friends. Hopefully someone in this forum would be able to advice you better than me or has taken this approach that you described.

As for the cable dimension that you are looking out for, try hardware shops, dedicated electrical suppliers/shops or Pasar road.

cheers

Anyone had tried this? I remembered someone had pulled the cable from MCB to the outlet point.

http://www.helukabel.de/index.php?lang=en

tin did that!

Thanks for the honest answer, and the point in the right direction to get copper cable!

Appreciate it. :-)

Bal.

bal wrote:Thanks for the honest answer, and the point in the right direction to get copper cable!

Appreciate it. :-)

Bal.

You can refer to the post by tin on helukabel here.

Bal, if u want a solid core 2.5mm, u may try octave Eletronics . They have belden cable with 2 core 2.5mm solid copper with aluminum shielding some more. I'm using it, if u want to try my diy powercord, I may test it with u. I have it with 1.8m, 2.0m n 2.2m they r all sound different.

Thanks so much Noodle88,
i know Yap at octave quite well, and am using his Gotham speaker cables with my maggie MMG... really very good sound for so little money. And he does a pretty good power cable also. Sometimes i wonder what this cable diy( in me) is about... i could just easily get one of his cables and be happy. I tried it at home and was very impressed. I'll go and have a chat with him, but thanks so much for the offer to listen to the cables.

Thanks again.

Bal.

I'm a regular customer of Octave. Maybe we meet b4 there? Ask Yap, who's the noodle guy, he will tell u the story....

Hi NgKimSoon,
This is my version of the Power Filter. Varistor, X2 Cap, Y2 Cap and Resistor. Quite simple. Basically, it give better focus and quieter background to music. Done it sometime ago. Only yesterday I make myself another because hand got itchy. Wonder anyone wants to buy from me or not..

Note: Extremely dangerous if you dont know what you are doing. Basically you are fooling with 230v of live current here.

[img][/img]

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Adrian...

Hmmm...interesting ....care to share the connectivity diagram.

cheers

do you have a reliable source of these X2 and Y2 caps other than Farnell and RS ? Don't trust Pasar Road....lots of fakes there.

Some say that a Varistor will degrade the sound....i don't know. Have you tried with a Varistor to see if there is a difference ?

Dear Adrian,

How much?

Thanks.

Hmm.. to share the secret recipe ah... tak boleh la... kena bayar..

Anyway, here you go. I am very very amateur in circuit drawing.

Note: Again, you are dealing with Live current and you should feel the danger knowing that the Y2 cap is short directly to the ground. The project is done using Industrial standard component, not the hifi/Audiophile component that doesnt comply to any regulation. But even that, you cant get insurance claim if you sustain any serious injury when a mischief take place. I cannot be held responsible for any of this.

[img][/img]

Hi Carz,
Yes, theoritically; varistor may degrade the final sound.. probably due to their on/off operation. But I never really experiment it. Furthermore, this is to plug in the adjacent wall outlet, not direct to hifi component.. So the effect can be subtle.

And yes, dont trust any DIY shop component. You should only look for it at Farnell or RS. And the capacitor needs to strictly follow the X and Y Classes.

Frankly... I rather not selling any of this.. As it is I takut kena sue.

Check this guy out, he's selling diy CAT5e. Anyway, does anyone know what's the difference between CAT5 and CAT5e? Tq.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1568734

adrian4454 wrote:Hmm.. to share the secret recipe ah... tak boleh la... kena bayar..

Anyway, here you go. I am very very amateur in circuit drawing.

Note: Again, you are dealing with Live current and you should feel the danger knowing that the Y2 cap is short directly to the ground. The project is done using Industrial standard component, not the hifi/Audiophile component that doesnt comply to any regulation. But even that, you cant get insurance claim if you sustain any serious injury when a mischief take place. I cannot be held responsible for any of this.


[img][/img]

A typical mains of 240VAC-RMS means it will its voltage peaks would be 339.4VAC already.

If the incoming voltage happens to be 250VAC-RMS, then the voltage peaks would be 354VAC already.


A few serious questions here:

1. Are the caps rated at VAC-RMS or at just "VAC" ?

2a. Has anyone gone and simulated this circuit in a SPICE program or equivalent simulator to see how it will behave under various inductive or capacitive loads or not ?

2b.And how would it influence the power-factor or not (with the various equipment loads)?

3. How would this noise filter react under incoming mains' with harmonic distortion?

4a. Could the caps have been under-spec'ed if it did not account for the AC Mains' peak voltages ?

4b. Are the 275VAC and 320VAC components in the diagram up to task ?

This all seems super risky and dicey here...

Hi Mugen,
Thanks for acknowledge the Danger involve. And good questions. I cant answer any of those.

This is just my little project to share. Frankly, it is base on the Isotek circuit, or the replica of it. The value is all correct.
Isotek used Revox Rifa on it 470nF X Cap, rated at 275Vac. Epcos 320V Varistor, and Epcos 22nF Y Cap rated at 300Vac. Intended to get the same on the Revox Rifa but totally no stock.

There are some wrong information in the diagram.. let me correct it again. The Varistor should be V, not Vac. The Y cap should be 300Vac.

That's why all caps need to be classed correctly, so that in the event of mischief it will be "Less risky"

I dont know any lab equipment or neither do I know how to measure on those.. Since someone asked me to share the diagram, so here you go.

Adrian, your design looks very risky. The cap you are getting is it x rated? If not you should get at least 600v and above. If I were you, I wouldn't connect a 3w resister across N and L.
I assume you want to kill RFI (radio frequency) with the design, maybe you should try LC filter instead of RC filter? I think is safer.

Have you try this by plugging a DAC or CD player to it?

Hi Kwwong,
Thanks. Any reason why the resistor cannot be connected across the N and L? The resistor is needed to "bleed" the 470nF X cap.

If for the danger of short circuit because of the Resistor suddenly become conductive between this N and L that you afraid of?

Anyway, like I said, it is a direct replica of the Isotek Plug... I dont dare to venture into other type of filters, until 1 that's completely proven ok. Or I can get hold of and look at the internal of it.

Hi Adrian...

I am the one requested you to share you build. Thank you for sharing.

My view, with proper design and build it should work but not in the manner you connect components via a wire connectors. That's real risky to a person who is building it and not to mention the equipment.

So anyone intending to do this on a DIY basis, has to understand the implications.

cheers

This is an EMI filter that you typically find in the input stage a Switch Mode Power Supply, like a DVD player...etc

The resistor is meant to discharge the X2 capacitor when you pull the 3-pin plug from the wall socket, so that you don't get a shock. If not, you will get full AC voltage at the live and neutral pins of the 3-pin plug.

The varistor acts as a surge suppressor and the voltage rating is the clamping voltage. At or above the rated clamping voltage, it will conduct to clamp voltage spikes.

Genuine Y caps are designed to fail without shorting. It is VERY important that you buy genuine components from genuine sources. If you buy a poorly made or imitation Y2 cap (and there are lots of these floating in the market), then it will pose a risk to you if it fails shorted. Then you get full potential to the ground pin.

Adrian, which model of Isotek Plug is the from and is it an exact (100%) replica ? Can you take a picture of all the components of the actual Isotek ?

Hi Guys,
Thanks for highlighting, especially Mugen. After another thorough check on the Caps. The Y Cap should be specced at 480Vac. 300V written on the original Isotek Plug is the AC voltage. 480 is the continuous max AC voltage.

Damn, need to go back to the drawing board again.

Hi Carz... I think cant really remember the name, I believe it is Isotek Isoplug. U can find the photo at Picture on Google. Someone open it before. Though it is a US plug insert, the rating is identical for our UK plug version.

The 1 I bought is Isotek Neon Plug.

just IMO, you all should be really careful esp. when it involves mains power supply.

Just curious, is anyone here even a properly certified chargeman or a qualified electrician ? Not me even.

Anyone here also an proper E.&E. Engineer by academic qualification?

Cmon guys ... don't take all these DIYs too far until it compromise your own home safety. Don't try to be too smart and play "engineer/designer" here. Its all fun and games until something really happens.

adrian4454 wrote:Hi Carz... I think cant really remember the name, I believe it is Isotek Isoplug. U can find the photo at Picture on Google. Someone open it before. Though it is a US plug insert, the rating is identical for our UK plug version.

The 1 I bought is Isotek Neon Plug.

Have to be careful that US voltage is 110V and UK/Malaysia is 240V, so the component rating in them will not be the same.

What's the difference between the Isotek Neon Plug and the Isoplug ?
Did you take your Isotek Neon Plug apart to check component value ?

Guys,
A forumer who is an engineer by training PM'ed me and asks me to just remind you guys to be very careful when doing something that deals with power supply from the outlet. It is very easy to get eletrocuted or start a short-circuit fire. Just be very careful OK? I personally don't tamper with the power supply but uses a Powertrans that is built by a qualified electrical contractor.

Thanks Guys. Like I've warned you all. In couple of my notes. It is dangerous!!!

So, I always remember to off my Main Circuit Breaker for hifi when not in use(In fact I changed this to a fuse type.. anyone care to know more ) knowing there is potential danger unknown to me.

Hi Carz,
Yes, I am well aware of that. I believe Isotek make the circuit capable of 240V, so it is totally applicable for the lower 110V. The reverse Live and Neutral on these US and UK plugs are not important here as the circuit can work on both without problem.

Not to kill the fun of it, just make sure there is a fuse is inline along the L inlet when you are playing with it.

Hi kwwong,
Yes it does. Sorry, forget to inform about this one. All 3 pin plugs are using 13A Bussmann fuse. Initially thought of lower it to 5A or 3A, but what the heck.

adrian4454 wrote:Thanks Guys. Like I've warned you all. In couple of my notes. It is dangerous!!!

So, I always remember to off my Main Circuit Breaker for hifi when not in use(In fact I changed this to a fuse type.. anyone care to know more ) knowing there is potential danger unknown to me.

Hi Carz,
Yes, I am well aware of that. I believe Isotek make the circuit capable of 240V, so it is totally applicable for the lower 110V. The reverse Live and Neutral on these US and UK plugs are not important here as the circuit can work on both without problem.

If that is so, then the Varistor clamping voltage for a 240V unit would be overrated for 110V operation, and ineffective. So that's why i doubt so. Have you actually checked a 240V unit or you are just making an assumption ??

Hi Carz,
Good question, this is the photo I found on the net. You should got the idea on which version of plug this is.. The code on the varistor is clearly shown. Appreciate you can help me to check too... maybe I got the wrong info again. Brand: Epcos

[img][/img]

It is an Epcos VARISTOR 320V RMS 20MM RADIAL - S20K320
Don't know why they specify that, but i suppose it will still have some degree of protection for 110V systems, for larger spikes.

Do you have closeups of the other 2 caps ?

adrian4454 wrote:Hi Carz,
Good question, this is the photo I found on the net. You should got the idea on which version of plug this is.. The code on the varistor is clearly shown. Appreciate you can help me to check too... maybe I got the wrong info again. Brand: Epcos

[img][/img]

Adrian...

Not wanting to pour cold water over your enthusiasm.....but precisely ( as in the photo )...thats how you should build it...also components has to match the voltage values as well..am sure u got that covered.

Good that you have warned everyone of the implications.

Diy...ing is a good thing but not until safety is compromised.

cheers

Hi Wingman,
That's the how the DIY I was building it.. if exactly how I will be building it... I will be getting lawsuit for infringing the Copyright.

Carz,
The "absolute" correct on the picture Y cap is the Vishay MKP 3386 version. Rated at 300V in AC. 22nF.

adrian4454 wrote:Hi Wingman,
That's the how the DIY I was building it.. if exactly how I will be building it... I will be getting lawsuit for infringing the Copyright.

Hi Adrian...

Not an exact replica....but with the same technique....circuit board.... sleeving for the component legs.....not the way you built....hazardous...man...silap touch the unprotected component legs..u get a jolt or more than that.... u get a free perm .....

cheers

Oh.. ok I got you. IN fact I never show the full picture of the final product. It is all inside a enclosed plastic casing. I am not that dummy la Wingman. hmm.. I should show the picture of my completed DIY..

This is beyond my wildest adventures. As much as I like to try to diy...honestly I got blurred with all the explanations. Better just buy what I can afford to....be more safe than sorry. I'll leave to the expert hands on this. Thanks Adrian for the safety reminders.

Anyway, I've just read HiFi World April 2011 small column, UK Safety Authorities had just revoked Russ Andrews Kimber Kable Power Kord advertisements for indicating that their power cord can removed/surpressed RF and EMI. The authorities were quoted for saying that there is no scientific evidence to support such claims and hence forbidding Russ Andrews from continuing to misled the UK general public by removing the wordings that the power cord can removed/surpressed the RF and EMI from their advertisements. How about that.