Power cord recommendations: RM150 - RM300

mugenfoo wrote:Start using some REAL plugs.








Oh, and remember to get your regular electrician to re-wire some thick gauge cables (like the ones used for big HP airconds and mega mondo water heaters) from the house DB to the socket area near your beloved Hifi System as well.


Of course, those using RM4.50/ft chicken noodle AC cords need not bother.

Why do you need such a bulky stuff. My company workshop use this stuff as general purpose eg. portable light, fan and normal equipment. They're used in explosion risk area cos this type of connection has good sealing.
How is it going to benefit the audio equipment.
What do we look for when come to chosing one.

noodle88,
The fuse, turned around as requested. Yup, the plug is only RM10...

7810sam wrote:

mugenfoo wrote:Start using some REAL plugs.








Oh, and remember to get your regular electrician to re-wire some thick gauge cables (like the ones used for big HP airconds and mega mondo water heaters) from the house DB to the socket area near your beloved Hifi System as well.


Of course, those using RM4.50/ft chicken noodle AC cords need not bother.

Why do you need such a bulky stuff. My company workshop use this stuff as general purpose eg. portable light, fan and normal equipment. They're used in explosion risk area cos this type of connection has good sealing.
How is it going to benefit the audio equipment.
What do we look for when come to chosing one.

Now this is a good question that deserves a good answer.

Normally ,yes, you won't really need these kind of plugs for that 32A rating, or that IP44 moisture/water tight rating.

And if anyone is thinking that such a plug is going to "enhance" their Audiolab or Cyrus or NAD or Marantz amp (and these are all very fine & superbly built equipment in their own right) by using these plugs/sockets, they'd be better off buying a couple more CDs or that fancypants inter-connect instead.

But if you happen to use a real monster of a power amp that's consuming more juice than a 3-Horsepower Aircond, and at standby generates more heat than a 100W lightbulb, and at idle generates the heat of approx 6 typical car front headlamps combined, you can appreciate the "extra headroom" these plugs provide when the Amp is in full swing.


Frankie Voon (of Pipit fame & for those of u who know him in person and his proven reputation as a successful local DIY'er & true builder of fine audio equipment {unlike some half-hacks who seem to have fetishes with cheap-n-nasty AC cords fit for an electric toothbrush and then claim the world of sonic difference from it} ) once placed a clamp meter on one such amps, and during a typical listening session, such amps can be drawing as much as 7Amps from the wall sockets. And although yes, the standard local home plugs are rated to 13A according to BS1363 standards, operating at such high amperage for prolong usage does tend to take a toll on these interfaces.

So here's your good answer, to a good question.

Yes, u may need these monster mugenfoo.

For those who play with set amps like 2a3 n 300b, u don't need it. Too big of a cable from main db box will make your bass just can't go down like something "tahan". A 2.5mm cable will more than enough.

May I ask a question? Tell me who's house supply don't use 2.5mm cable? 2.5mm cable can take 25-30A of current if I m not wrong. Furthermore, set amp operate in constant current which don't need a over size cable. But the situation would be different if u use a big push pull amp like 100w per channel or a big krell , u may need all this.

For me, a dedicated grounding for your Hifi system is most important. This is to ensure that all your eletrical noise don't share the ground path...

jazzy939 wrote:noodle88,
The fuse, turned around as requested. Yup, the plug is only RM10...

Jazzy, this bussmann fuse not bad, silver plated, has good staging n good attack. Ace hardware is selling rm8.50 per 5 pcs. If u find it a bit too agresive, let me know I have another type of bussmann fuse which made in England, sounded more mellow n layback

noodle88 wrote:t if u use a big push pull amp like 100w per channel or a big krell , u may need all this.

Almost all Krells power-amps are NOT push-pull. But it seems like anything to @noodle88 that is not SET, is "push-pull". Such is the limit and depth of your understanding of hi-fi electronics. have you even heard of such a term called "Class-A" ?

Do you know the differences between Class-A, Class-AB, Class-B, Class-C and class-D topologies?
Did you know what your dear beloved SET actually falls under one of the above classes ? (Take a guess which one).


Seriously doubtful if you can even comprehend the link below but just putting it here for the benefit of other other readers (and hopefully improving your ignorance by perhaps 0.2%, but only if u dare click the link and are able to understand the contents).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_amplifier

What I mention earlier mainly for those tube amp owner n not Ss. Sorry mugen if my word is not clear....

Set amp fall under class a, n push pull amp r not class a. Because set amp work in a constant current enviroment.

But vse tube amps r different, they r not set nor push pull, they r differential. They have both the beneffit of both world.

Mugen I don't want to argue with u, as this doesn't bennefit this forum.

Just for your info, I do own push pull n Ss amps.

Set amp : 300b driven by 2a3 with interstage. 8w

Push pull amp : CJ Primear 11a, 6550a push pull, ultra linear mode tube amp . 70w

differential amp : VSE design DIY PP2cs. Kt88 tube full differential mode @ 20w

Ss amp : aura Av 100 amp.

All the above amp still using by me daily n all of them r very good amp. I love them very much ..... So how do u think mugen more should I own? ???

OK then you ALSO be AWARE that alot of monster SS amps, (including Krell, mark levin, Gryphon ) are all operating purely in Class-A, thats why they need to suck 3000W from TNB to *only* give 300W of signal power output for example. You get it now ???

noodle88,
Duly noted. Have not use the plug yet, need to get the cable as recommended. Will revert. Thanks!

Hey guys, I have made a mistake the cable is rm4.90 per ft m not 4.50.

For those who like to play around n low cost. This is the best value for money u can get.

Cheers,

noodle88,
I'll check it out at ACE hardware today.. I also fould another bussman fuse installed in another plug. Also silver plated.
Will compare the ACE's cable to my existing one.

Thks mugen and noodle88 for the info.
In the past, I'm not aware that this monster SS amp suck so much power from TNB. From Mugen description( I hope he didn't exaggerate), 7amp, that work out p=IxV=240x7= 1680watts per amp sound like boiling water from kettle. And 3000w(able light up a small kampung) to run the monster krell, etc. Well, if they can afford this monster, this is peanut to them.

Hey guys, since so many of u interested, u may get the cable from ace hardware. Go look for the orange colour cable 12awg which price at rm4.90 per ft. Go buy 6 ft only, pls don't buy all....

Fix with mk 13a plug(rm 10) , for iec u can either get the brass type oyaide clone or red copper type. Pls don't go for silver, palidium, gold, rodium or something excotic .

noodle88 wrote:Hey guys, since so many of u interested, u may get the cable from ace hardware. Go look for the orange colour cable 12awg which price at rm4.90 per ft. Go buy 6 ft only, pls don't buy all....

Fix with mk 13a plug(rm 10) , for iec u can either get the brass type oyaide clone or red copper type. Pls don't go for silver, palidium, gold, rodium or something excotic .

Whats wrong with going for something exotic (yes, this is how u spell "exotic".) ?

noodle88 wrote:Hey guys, since so many of u interested, u may get the cable from ace hardware. Go look for the orange colour cable 12awg which price at rm4.90 per ft. Go buy 6 ft only, pls don't buy all....

Fix with mk 13a plug(rm 10) , for iec u can either get the brass type oyaide clone or red copper type. Pls don't go for silver, palidium, gold, rodium or something excotic .

At this price wouldn't it be better to use stock cable supplied by the manufacturer?

tycham wrote:

noodle88 wrote:Hey guys, since so many of u interested, u may get the cable from ace hardware. Go look for the orange colour cable 12awg which price at rm4.90 per ft. Go buy 6 ft only, pls don't buy all....

Fix with mk 13a plug(rm 10) , for iec u can either get the brass type oyaide clone or red copper type. Pls don't go for silver, palidium, gold, rodium or something excotic .

At this price wouldn't it be better to use stock cable supplied by the manufacturer?

Exactly. Doesn't seem like its worth the hassle just to replace one OEM cable with anothe OEM/General Purpose cable.

tycham wrote:

At this price wouldn't it be better to use stock cable supplied by the manufacturer?

Ya hor.. you got a good point also..

A reminder. Some good equipment are supplied with good industrial grade power cords. So don't look down on the stock power cord just because it comes 'free' with the equipment. Especially if the power cord is from Belden.

Don't know about stock cables or who manufactures them but factors that really make a difference in sound are the materials and the treatment of the materials.

For instance i've found oxygen free copper to sound better than normal copper. OCC copper sounds even better than oxygen free and PCOCC even bettererthan OCC! And then when they cryogenically treat these, even betterererer!!! Really, I kid you not. Then add fancy shielding and you have a super duper cable. Not to mention you end up with a hole in the wallet too.

It never ends...

bimmerman wrote:Don't know about stock cables or who manufactures them but factors that really make a difference in sound are the materials and the treatment of the materials.

For instance i've found oxygen free copper to sound better than normal copper. OCC copper sounds even better than oxygen free and PCOCC even bettererthan OCC! And then when they cryogenically treat these, even betterererer!!! Really, I kid you not. Then add fancy shielding and you have a super duper cable. Not to mention you end up with a hole in the wallet too.

That also mean they won't come as cheap as 4 something, right?

Has anyone bought and tested the 4 something cable yet? Am curious just for curiousity sake

Yup, bought and using Furutech 314AG. It's cryo treated and silver plated copper. Has shielding and all that cable jazz. RM1XX per meter. Used it on my Krell integrated. Sound wise it was quite a revelation from stock after 1 month running in. Then got itchy and tried 1.5 meters of Furutech 320TS rated at 20Amps(can't remember the name exactly) and suddenly the soundstage opened up and details shot through the ceiling. Not that the earlier cable was dull or muddy or lacking but the 320TS with it's OCC Copper suited the Krell better. Or at least to my taste. Sometimes I switch back to the earlier cable for a more laidback presentation.

I'd like to add that prior to switching to SS, I had a pair of Cary Valve monoblocks and any form of cable other than stock cables made them shouty and uncomfortable to listen to. I used the FOC cables that came from PCs with the UK plug with excellent results.

bimmerman wrote:Yup, bought and using Furutech 314AG. It's cryo treated and silver plated copper. Has shielding and all that cable jazz. RM1XX per meter. Used it on my Krell integrated. Sound wise it was quite a revelation from stock after 1 month running in. Then got itchy and tried 1.5 meters of Furutech 320TS rated at 20Amps(can't remember the name exactly) and suddenly the soundstage opened up and details shot through the ceiling. Not that the earlier cable was dull or muddy or lacking but the 320TS with it's OCC Copper suited the Krell better. Or at least to my taste. Sometimes I switch back to the earlier cable for a more laidback presentation.

have u ever try the furutech cable 3" shorter? It do make different....
It will aslo speed up your music.

bimmerman wrote:I'd like to add that prior to switching to SS, I had a pair of Cary Valve monoblocks and any form of cable other than stock cables made them shouty and uncomfortable to listen to. I used the FOC cables that came from PCs with the UK plug with excellent results.

u use the original pc cable 13a uk plug?

From experience have to really audition power cables especially for amps. I find that while the treble or bass improves, a lot of time the leading edges are softened which is not to my liking.

Hi Noodles, No i've not tried furutech 3 inches shorter. but right now it sounds just about right. Not too bright, not too fast, just very very organic, very lifelike performance.

With my old Cary valve monoblocks I was using PC type cables with UK 13Amp plugs. Actually the cables came free with HP laser printers which my company threw out.

bimmerman wrote:Hi Noodles, No i've not tried furutech 3 inches shorter. but right now it sounds just about right. Not too bright, not too fast, just very very organic, very lifelike performance.

With my old Cary valve monoblocks I was using PC type cables with UK 13Amp plugs. Actually the cables came free with HP laser printers which my company threw out.

not the original pc cable's 3 pin plug right? Because do u notice that the original pc cable's plug holding a 10A fuse in it ??????

noodle88 wrote:

not the original pc cable's 3 pin plug right? Because do u notice that the original pc cable's plug holding a 10A fuse in it ??????

DO you cut it before?? I thought many PC cable don't carry any fuse, but rated 10a 250v only.

Well, these PC type cables were beige in colour and came from some old HP Laserjet printers and the 3 pin UK plug did have a 13amp fuse it did.

Bought the orange cable from ACE Hardware today. RM3.90 per feet. Bought 6 feet..

Saw the following along the cable sheath:

WOODS INDUSTRIES ---- 3/C 14 AWG (2.08 mm2) WATER RESISTANT SJTOW CSA (-40C) FT-2 MADE IN USA 300V

Hey jazzy, I tough u should look for the 12awg that cost rm4.90???

jazzy939 wrote:Bought the orange cable from ACE Hardware today. RM3.90 per feet. Bought 6 feet..

Saw the following along the cable sheath:

WOODS INDUSTRIES ---- 3/C 14 AWG (2.08 mm2) WATER RESISTANT SJTOW CSA (-40C) FT-2 MADE IN USA 300V

We use this as extension cord on construction site.

noodle88,
12AWG is way too 'big' for the MK plug lah.. 14AWG is just 'ngam-ngam' one.. pretty stiff already!
I may try the 12AWG if I'm not entirely happy with this 14AWG.. no big deal.. can make extension cord for construction site mahhh!

Also I am pitting it against my current 'noname' 14AWG cable that I bought from JP.. See if it's worth the salt...

Have been playing for more than hour now... no comments for now

noodle88 wrote:Hey jazzy, I tough u should look for the 12awg that cost rm4.90???

so how the sound?
haha i am waitting my done by noodle...

royroy,
Listening test are subjected to individual perceptions and expectations.
Some people might disagree based on his own logic,perceptions,certain known formulae,'experience' and a well read info/knowledge.. It's kinda defeat the purpose...

Nonetheless, all I can say is, its a worthwhile effort.
Thank you noodle for sharing this info. Eventhough I got the 14AWG instead of 12AWG, I have my reasons for getting a smaller size and yes, its a keeper!

Have u guys tried Copper-line Alpha? It's pretty cheap around RM180 for
1m (depending on exchange rate) terminated with good quality IEC and MK
plug. I have 3 of these and another one coming soon.

Maybe it can't compete with Furutech or Wireworld and all but heck for
that price I don't do so much thinking. Way better than standard power
cord and look nice too.

The cable sounded really open and enhance on treble. What Hi-fi said
there's greater punch and solidity in bass but I find that is not really
true. A little maybe but not greater.

All in all it's a good and solid power cable for the price.

I have changed the standard two wire power cords on my equipment to the ACE - 12AWG power cords soldered directly to the Power boards for all my equipment. These equipment do not come with IEC inlets.

There is definetly an improvement when I play my CDP or Tuner. There is weight and clarity.

Have also enclosed them into "braided sleeving" for damping and a bit of class.

Noodle, thanks for sharing.

Cheers

"Have also enclosed them into "braided sleeving" for damping and a bit of class."

Ahem... mind telling where's the place to buy these "braided sleeving"? Should look NICE ...

Wingman ,

Have u compare the sound with or without sleeving? I would prefer without sleeving. If u r using some nylon sleeving, I would susgest u take it off bcos it will kill the sound.

To all,

Now it's time for tuning the cable.
Try this out, put your poweramp's power plug at the position nearest to the powerline inlet at your power strip n then put your cd power plug farest away from the powerline inlet . N put dac , preamp in between n u will notice a big different.

Hi...

Ritchie.....

Don't mind sharing.

Jalan Pasar, one of the shops opposite of "AMBANK". Never really took notice of the shop name. You need to go to the back of the shop, where the cables are displayed. It should be on the first row of the display rack. It's black with Red lining.

Noodle......

Have tested and don't find any difference with or without, so its staying on.

cheers

Can I recommend the Clearaudio Diamond Powerline? Clearly better than the Siltech SPX-20 on my amp. Cost 4 times more than RM300 though

Guys....

Have seem some "humongous" terminated power cables at AMCORP mall but its from China. You would be suprised at the price of these cables.

cheers

noodle88 wrote:Wingman ,

Have u compare the sound with or without sleeving? I would prefer without sleeving. If u r using some nylon sleeving, I would susgest u take it off bcos it will kill the sound.

To all,

Now it's time for tuning the cable.
Try this out, put your poweramp's power plug at the position nearest to the powerline inlet at your power strip n then put your cd power plug farest away from the powerline inlet . N put dac , preamp in between n u will notice a big different.

Sleeves only for cosmetic purpose. How is it possible sleeves will kill the sound? I'm just thinking logically and not trying to argue

As for the trick with plug position, that is something interesting to try. High powered device such as power amp or AVR always benefit from direct AC without any filter or conditioner so direct connect to wall always the best or get a block with pass through plug. Source like CDP or DVDP always benefit more with proper filtering and conditioning.

We do try it b4, while we use something to scratch the sleeving of a interconnect , Iit happen to have noise from the speaker. I will not use sleeving, if u want just go ahead....

The tuning is something to do with grounding, very poweramp r mouser they should place nearest to the power inlet. However cdp very often we place the farest from power inlet because cdp need not to be so fast n at that position, we also can tune our system further... The story have yet end bro ....

For those who want to add filter for cdp u can add one after the plug...

llsaw wrote:Can I recommend the Clearaudio Diamond Powerline? Clearly better than the Siltech SPX-20 on my amp. Cost 4 times more than RM300 though

Wow.. Surely one hell of a pair of expensive 'snakes'.
But then, if you have finally get what you dreamed of, then it is great.

car o scope wrote:

llsaw wrote:Can I recommend the Clearaudio Diamond Powerline? Clearly better than the Siltech SPX-20 on my amp. Cost 4 times more than RM300 though

Wow.. Surely one hell of a pair of expensive 'snakes'.
But then, if you have finally get what you dreamed of, then it is great.

Yeah we all should be happy for llsaw. Not everyone can afford a power cord that costs 4 times more than RM300.

llsaw wrote:Can I recommend the Clearaudio Diamond Powerline? Clearly better than the Siltech SPX-20 on my amp. Cost 4 times more than RM300 though

Imagine my friends using the diamonds for every component in their system. And they have 4 amps (phono, pre, monoblock) plus turntable.

Welding cable i tell you, welding cable is the best !
Rated to 300Amps.


Big, round, orange and MACHO looking! Each separate runs for Live, Neutral and Earth. Now, the next issue, is how to terminate a plug on those cables. I don't think any MK 3-pin plug or IEC plug would be able to accommodate "welding cable".